Crinkling Fabric:
Gather and Twist: Start
with a natural fiber fabric, such as cotton. Working with a
piece of wet fabric, I usually don't use less than a fat quarter,
gather it up on both sides. You should have a rope like thing at
this point. Start twisting it and keep going until it curls
around itself. Tie the ends together with heavy thread.
Dry: Toss it in
the dryer with some towels. Or hang it to dry. Test by
sticking your finger inside the folds.
Untie: Untie and
spread it out but don't smooth out all those wrinkles !
Add iron-on Interfacing:
Press a piece of iron-on interfacing to the back side, following
manufacturers directions. I use tricot because it's less stiff
than the others.
Stitch:
For larger pieces you will need to add some stitching to hold those
folds down on the right side. I favor meandering rows of
stitching that wanders down the fabric, crossing those loose folds.
Any decorative stitch can be used as well as most kinds of decorative
threads. Experiment with threads, colors, and stitches.
For simple stitches like the reinforced straight stitch (one of my
favorites for this technique) you probably won't need stabilizer, just
loosen the needle tension. But for wider more complex stitches I
recommend using a stabilizer. For crinkled fabric to be used in
small areas like an appliqué, you won't need to add stitching.
Note: If you
need more detailed instructions with pictures, I recommend the book:
Texture with
Textiles by Linda F. McGehee
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Twisted Cord made with the
Spinster
While we've done this in seminars and clubs, here's a refresher:
Start by assembling the threads you want to use. This can be
a mix of embroidery threads, serger threads, yarns, crochet threads or
thin strips of fabric.
Cut them about 4 or 5 times the length you want your finished cord.
It helps to have a helper but you can use a clamp as a 3rd hand.
Fold the cords in half and insert the Spinster into the loop.
Hold onto the cut ends (or clamp them to something) and crank the
Spinster to twist the cords. Holding both ends remove the
Spinster and hang it in the middle of the twisted cord. Slowly
let both ends come together. The cord will re-twist around itself.
Stop when it starts to reverse the direction of its spin. Remove
the spinster and tie a knot in the loose ends.
Use your twisted cord as handles on purses, to hang pictures, to
couch onto garments, as cording on the edge of pillows, and as
bookmarks. Have fun, the possibilities are endless.
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Printing on Fabric
Using your computer and printer to transfer your own
images and pictures to fabric is not only fun but can give you an
opportunity to produce original and very personal fabric.
What does it take?
Computer and inkjet printer (or Bubble Jet) and
specially treated fabric sheets. Treating the fabric allows the
ink to penetrate the fibers and makes a permanent bond. Some
printers allow you to print directly from your digital camera or data
cards (no computer required).
The Fabric:
The fabric needs to be treated to accept the ink and
be fused to a paper sheet. The paper sheet allows it to feed
smoothly through the printer. Once printed, the paper can be
removed. You can buy prepared fabrics or you can prepare your
own. Buying is the most expensive, of course. Making your own
takes time, but costs less. Let's explore both options.
Buying:
June Tailor sells smooth cotton sheets.
Vintage Workshop sells several types:
Making you own:
Start with a natural fiber fabric. If you're
planning to print photos and want crisp detail buy a smooth tightly
woven fabric (200 thread count). I like Southern Belle cotton
broadcloth. Pre-wash to remove sizing, dry and press.
Texture or a coarse weave will give you a textured surface.
Artist canvas gives you the look of an oil painting.
Once you fabric is chosen and prepared, it needs to
be treated to accept and hold the ink. I use Bubble Jet Set 2000
for this.


Bubble Jet Set 2000 Instructions
Shake well and pour solution into flat pan. Saturate
fabric in solution for 5 minutes. Hang to dry. Iron fabric to the
shiny side of freezer paper. I cut the fabric and the freezer paper 9
X 11 1/2 then trim to 8 1/2 X 11 after it's ironed together. Note: the
company that sells Bubble Jet also sells freezer paper that adheres a
little better than freezer paper you buy at the grocery store.
It's also precut to printer size. Iron it on to the fabric and
trim the fabric to match. Print on treated fabric and let sit
for 30 minutes. Note: Set your printer properties to best
quality and heavy ink. The recommendation is to print immediately on
treated fabric for better results but I have stored sheets in a
plastic bag and used them weeks later with good results.
After printing and letting the fabric dry, remove
the paper. Take a flat pan or bowl and fill with 1 gallon of cold
water. Add 2-4 caps full of Bubble Jet Rinse. Wash printed fabric by
hand for 2 minutes. Allow the fabric to drip dry or lay flat on a
towel. (do not wring fabric)
Frequently asked Bubble Jet Set questions:
1. What printer should I use? Any ink jet or bubble
jet printer.
2. Will Bubble Jet Set damage my printer? No.
3. Do I need to pre-wash the fabric? Testing showed no indications
that you need to pre-wash, however, shrinkage may need to be removed
for successful projects.
4. What type of fabric works the best? 100% cotton and 100% silk.
5. How much color loss can be expected? Results may vary depending on
the printer you use. Set your printer to the best quality available
because it puts more ink onto the fabric and the image will be
brighter.
6. Will the fabric be stiff? No.
7. Can I reuse the product? Yes. Return the leftover Bubble Jet Set to
the bottle and tightly close the lid.
8. Can I use a blow dryer to hurry the drying time? Yes.
9. Is Bubble Jet Set toxic? Treat as a common household product, it
contains many of the ingredients that are found in detergents. It can
be opened in the house, you do not have to use any special precautions
to use the product. The company recommends rubber gloves and an open
window.
10. Can the finished projects be washed in the machine? Yes. I
recommend cold water and a gentle cycle with a mild soap or Bubble Jet
Rinse.
11. Will the printing fade with washing? Yes, the same as any garment
that is washed repeatedly.
12. What is the shelf life of the product? 1 yr.
13. Will heat or cold effect the product? Freezing is not recommended
nor is extreme heat.
14. How many fabric sheets can I make out of 1 32 oz bottle? Between
50 and 60 depending on the weight of the fabric.
Well you be the judge as to which way to is best.
I make my own because I feel I have control and because it's cheaper,
I don't feel so bad if I mess up a sheet.
Links for the 3 companies and Bubble Jet Set mentioned above are on the
links page. Most of the stuff is available locally but it's
nice to see a complete selection before you shop.
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Another option is to use
a transfer sheet to get your image onto fabric. The reversed
image is printed on the sheets, then placed face down and pressed to
transfer the image from the paper. The image and any uncolored
areas must be trimmed prior to pressing or the transfer medium will
show on your fabric. Two types of transfers are available.
Inkjet printer transfers and copy machine transfers. They're not
interchangeable so read the package carefully. Once transferred
the image can be felt and will leave the fabric a little stiffer.
After washing, if you need to press the fabric remember to use a
Teflon press cloth to avoid removing the image.
Note: A dark fabric can show through a light image and discolor it.
Look for transfer sheets made for dark fabrics.
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Pin Down the Facts !!
Whether you are quilting or making decorations, knowing
the right pin to use can be the difference between ordinary and
extraordinary. Here are some helpful hints to assist you in making
your next project a charming creation:
Pins with smaller numbers
have shorter shafts (e.g., Size 17 is shorter than Size 21).
Longer pins aid in securing
multiple layers of fabric.
Sharp point pins are best
suited for delicate fabrics.
Ball point pins are best
suited for knit fabrics.
Glass head pins can be ironed
over without melting.
Flower head pins lie flat,
making rotary cutting a breeze.
Pins with a
smaller shaft (.5mm) make smaller holes in the fabric, good for
delicate and
tightly woven fabrics.
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