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Frequently Asked Questions:

I get lots of questions, while I don't have all the answers I can usually give you some information or provide a way to find it.  Choose a subject:

Crinkling Fabric

Twisted Cord

Printing on Fabric

Another "Image on Fabric" option

Pin Facts

 

Crinkling Fabric:

Gather and Twist: Start with a natural fiber fabric, such as cotton.  Working with a piece of wet fabric, I usually don't use less than a fat quarter, gather it up on both sides.  You should have a rope like thing at this point.  Start twisting it and keep going until it curls around itself.  Tie the ends together with heavy thread.

Dry:  Toss it in the dryer with some towels.  Or hang it to dry.  Test by sticking your finger inside the folds.

Untie:  Untie and spread it out but don't smooth out all those wrinkles !

Add iron-on Interfacing:  Press a piece of iron-on interfacing to the back side, following manufacturers directions.  I use tricot because it's less stiff than the others. 

Stitch:  For larger pieces you will need to add some stitching to hold those folds down on the right side.  I favor meandering rows of stitching that wanders down the fabric, crossing those loose folds.  Any decorative stitch can be used as well as most kinds of decorative threads.  Experiment with threads, colors, and stitches.  For simple stitches like the reinforced straight stitch (one of my favorites for this technique) you probably won't need stabilizer, just loosen the needle tension.  But for wider more complex stitches I recommend using a stabilizer.  For crinkled fabric to be used in small areas like an appliqué, you won't need to add stitching.

 

Note: If you need more detailed instructions with pictures, I recommend the book:

Texture with Textiles by Linda F. McGehee

 

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Twisted Cord made with the Spinster 

While we've done this in seminars and clubs, here's a refresher:

Start by assembling the threads you want to use.  This can be a mix of embroidery threads, serger threads, yarns, crochet threads or thin strips of fabric.

Cut them about 4 or 5 times the length you want your finished cord.

It helps to have a helper but you can use a clamp as a 3rd hand.

Fold the cords in half and insert the Spinster into the loop.  Hold onto the cut ends (or clamp them to something) and crank the Spinster to twist the cords.  Holding both ends remove the Spinster and hang it in the middle of the twisted cord.  Slowly let both ends come together. The cord will re-twist around itself.  Stop when it starts to reverse the direction of its spin.  Remove the spinster and tie a knot in the loose ends.

Use your twisted cord as handles on purses, to hang pictures, to couch onto garments, as cording on the edge of pillows, and as bookmarks.  Have fun, the possibilities are endless.

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Printing on Fabric

Using your computer and printer to transfer your own images and pictures to fabric is not only fun but can give you an opportunity to produce original and very personal fabric.

What does it take? 

Computer and inkjet printer (or Bubble Jet) and specially treated fabric sheets.  Treating the fabric allows the ink to penetrate the fibers and makes a permanent bond.  Some printers allow you to print directly from your digital camera or data cards (no computer required).

The Fabric:

The fabric needs to be treated to accept the ink and be fused to a paper sheet.  The paper sheet allows it to feed smoothly through the printer.  Once printed, the paper can be removed. You can buy  prepared fabrics or you can prepare your own.  Buying is the most expensive, of course. Making your own takes time, but costs less.  Let's explore both options.

Buying:

June Tailor sells smooth cotton sheets. 

Vintage Workshop sells several types:

bulletArtist Canvas
bulletCotton canvas
bulletCotton Poplin
bulletLinen

Color Textiles sells a variety of fabric on sheets and on rolls for banner type printing.

bulletPoplin
bulletTwill
bulletCotton lawn
bulletCotton sheeting
bulletRayon challis
bulletSoft denim
bulletBroadcloth
bulletLinen
bulletSilk Habotai
bulletSilk Chiffon
bulletSilk Satin
bulletSilk Charmeuse
bulletSilk Crepe de Chine

Making you own:

Start with a natural fiber fabric.  If you're planning to print photos and want crisp detail buy a smooth tightly woven fabric (200 thread count).  I like Southern Belle cotton broadcloth.  Pre-wash to remove sizing, dry and press.  Texture or a coarse weave will give you a textured surface.  Artist canvas gives you the look of an oil painting.

Once you fabric is chosen and prepared, it needs to be treated to accept and hold the ink.  I use Bubble Jet Set 2000 for this.

     

Bubble Jet Set 2000 Instructions

Shake well and pour solution into flat pan. Saturate fabric in solution for 5 minutes. Hang to dry. Iron fabric to the shiny side of freezer paper. I cut the fabric and the freezer paper 9 X 11 1/2 then trim to 8 1/2 X 11 after it's ironed together. Note: the company that sells Bubble Jet also sells freezer paper that adheres a little better than freezer paper you buy at the grocery store.  It's also precut to printer size.  Iron it on to the fabric and trim the fabric to match.  Print on treated fabric and let sit for 30 minutes. Note:  Set your printer properties to best quality and heavy ink. The recommendation is to print immediately on treated fabric for better results but I have stored sheets in a plastic bag and used them weeks later with good results.

After printing and letting the fabric dry, remove the paper. Take a flat pan or bowl and fill with 1 gallon of cold water. Add 2-4 caps full of Bubble Jet Rinse. Wash printed fabric by hand for 2 minutes. Allow the fabric to drip dry or lay flat on a towel. (do not wring fabric)

Frequently asked Bubble Jet Set questions:

1. What printer should I use? Any ink jet or bubble jet printer.
2. Will Bubble Jet Set damage my printer? No.
3. Do I need to pre-wash the fabric? Testing showed no indications that you need to pre-wash, however, shrinkage may need to be removed for successful projects.
4. What type of fabric works the best? 100% cotton and 100% silk.
5. How much color loss can be expected? Results may vary depending on the printer you use. Set your printer to the best quality available because it puts more ink onto the fabric and the image will be brighter.
6. Will the fabric be stiff? No.
7. Can I reuse the product? Yes. Return the leftover Bubble Jet Set to the bottle and tightly close the lid.
8. Can I use a blow dryer to hurry the drying time? Yes.
9. Is Bubble Jet Set toxic? Treat as a common household product, it contains many of the ingredients that are found in detergents. It can be opened in the house, you do not have to use any special precautions to use the product. The company recommends rubber gloves and an open window.
10. Can the finished projects be washed in the machine? Yes. I recommend cold water and a gentle cycle with a mild soap or Bubble Jet Rinse.
11. Will the printing fade with washing? Yes, the same as any garment that is washed repeatedly.
12. What is the shelf life of the product? 1 yr.
13. Will heat or cold effect the product? Freezing is not recommended nor is extreme heat.
14. How many fabric sheets can I make out of 1 32 oz bottle? Between 50 and 60 depending on the weight of the fabric.

Well you be the judge as to which way to is best.  I make my own because I feel I have control and because it's cheaper, I don't feel so bad if I mess up a sheet.
 

Links for the 3 companies and Bubble Jet Set mentioned above are on the links page.  Most of the stuff is available locally but it's nice to see a complete selection before you shop.

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Another option is to use a transfer sheet to get your image onto fabric.  The reversed image is printed on the sheets, then placed face down and pressed to transfer the image from the paper.  The image and any uncolored areas must be trimmed prior to pressing or the transfer medium will show on your fabric.  Two types of transfers are available.  Inkjet printer transfers and copy machine transfers.  They're not interchangeable so read the package carefully.  Once transferred the image can be felt and will leave the fabric a little stiffer.  After washing, if you need to press the fabric remember to use a Teflon press cloth to avoid removing the image.  Note: A dark fabric can show through a light image and discolor it.  Look for transfer sheets made for dark fabrics.

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Pin Down the Facts !!

Whether you are quilting or making decorations, knowing the right pin to use can be the difference between ordinary and extraordinary. Here are some helpful hints to assist you in making your next project a charming creation:

Pins with smaller numbers have shorter shafts (e.g., Size 17 is shorter than Size 21).

Longer pins aid in securing multiple layers of fabric.

Sharp point pins are best suited for delicate fabrics.

Ball point pins are best suited for knit fabrics.

Glass head pins can be ironed over without melting.

Flower head pins lie flat, making rotary cutting a breeze.

Pins with a smaller shaft (.5mm) make smaller holes in the fabric, good for

       delicate and tightly woven fabrics.

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